Mon. 27. [27 April 1896] Out early and to Alinari's with Caroline. Back
to the inn where I picked up Mr Cushing and took him to pick her up.
Then to the Opera del Duomo - the Donatello organ loft is like nothing
else, the Luca is very lovely and classical, but the rush of figures
round the Donatello is pure Renaissance of the best kind. Then to the
Accademmia where it was a great joy to see the Primavera; I love too
the Gentile procession and the Ghirlandajo, the Angelico Judgement
and the Verrochio Baptism and the Filippo Coronation. Interesting
Visitation, Pacchiarotto I think - I wonder who invented grouping the 2
women in front of the arch, there is just such another at Siena. Then to
the Spanish Chapel - magnificent place - I had forgotten how fine the
Transfiguration and Resurrection in the roof are, and the Calvary. The
Orcagnas in the church are very lovely - his Paradise much more
heavenly than Signorelli's, exquisite ranges of figures, his Hell pure
Dante. Home to lunch with Mr C. Sent telegrams and then drove up to
Lady Paget's. She was out so we wandered to a little wall and sat on
it watching the lovely view westwards over the Arno valley. Back to
the Pagets - lovely house and garden full of roses and wistaria and
irises, and such a view of Florence [Firenze]! There came to tea a
little dim German lady, a Mrs Stanhope and a Count Moquart who
talked amusingly in all languages, chiefly about B¸ckling's studio up
at Fiesole. Dined at home.