Tues. 14. [14 April 1896] Mary's[?] wedding day. Delicious bright
morning. Up early and out and down to the Schinfanoia Palace where
we saw the most charming early frescoes of the months and the signs
of the Zodiac. In the garden the lilacs were nearly out. Then to the
library, excellent arranged, where we saw Ariosto's and Tasso's
MSS. I went to send a telegram after which we sallied forth, saw
Tasso's prison in the hospital (such a beautiful big place, the hospital,
in an old monastery) and then to the gallery where there is a fine
Rocco Marconi Tribute Money and a very fine Tura St Jerome - and
the rest of the pictures, Garofalo's and Dossos I didn't like at all. But I
liked one Ercole Grandi, an Assumption of a saint with a beautiful
Tuscan landscape. Poor school, the Ferrararese - forced, ugly in
colour, ugly in form and full of false sentiment. Home to lunch where
Mrs Green fell in with some acquaintances. Drove out to Ariosto's
delightful little brick house, "parva sed apta nihi sed non sordida."
Beautiful wooden ceilings and such a sun in his garden. The woman
plucked for us narcissus and forgetmenots out of it. Then to the
Certosa, a very delightful place of tombs, mostly modern. Then along
the great walls - San Giorgio outside the town where we found a dear
old priest preparing an unruly class for first communion. Beautiful
tomb of the doctor of Julius II, subsequently Bp of Ferrara - very like
della Robbia but in stone. Left at 5.30 - gorgeous evening light. Such
a sunset, flaring between the Euganeans [Euganei, Colli] and the
Apennines with all the little green tree tops silhouetted against it and a
tiny new moon lying on its back above. The Apennines white with
snow. Reached Ravenna at 7.30. Very tired. Early to bed. Grand
Hotel Byron.