Wed 30. [30 August 1899] Up at 3. Warm with a little cloud. We
started at 4 and got up to the Col de la Lanze at 6.15. Snow very
good, but tedious. The Meije rock looked most splendid. Lunched
on the Col. Lohm¸ller cross; I think, anyhow he wd not eat! Then they
went up the Pic de la Grave and we at 7.30 all down the glacier
reaching the foot in an hour. Light mists blowing across and sun.
Cloud across the Romanche valley, Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles
d'Arve putting their heads through it. Got onto the plateau of the
Refuge du Lac Noir which we left to the right and descended a long
very steep descent over stones and grass full of flowers to the Selle
valley which we struck below the Refuge. Then down to St Christophe
where we arrived a little before 11. Very lovely steep valley with
birches in it and peaks above. Zsigmondy and Thaurant are buried
here. Very footsore; horrid old French couple who made a fuss when I
came down to lunch in stockings. Very hungry. Slept for an hour,
croqueted my luggage which I sent on to La BÈrarde by mule, and
started at 2.30 getting to La BÈrarde at 4.45. Most delicious afternoon,
the valley superb, light clouds, peaks and snow and below the
VÈnÈon and a narrow band of green set with birches. Left the VallÈe
de la LevÈe to our right. The Ventouilles? [space left blank] stood out
finely. Had tea here on arriving and a bath. Dinner at 6.30 with a
charming old Frenchman from Grenoble who was the only other
person in the hotel. He had travelled in Japan and China and knew
M. Dubail. Towards the end of dinner the Germans came in. They
washed quickly and we sat talking to them while they dined. Early to
bed and slept some 111/2 hours.