Aug 5. Monday. [5 August 1895] Up early and went with Papa to the
Pinacothek. Very interesting with Morelli for guide. On the whole we
came to the conclusion that the Italian pictures were not very good -
they are so awfully repainted and spoilt by restoration. Rafael for
instance has suffered so much that his Madonnas are all out of
drawing - Albertinelli's Annunciation a charming composition is
entirely spoilt by repainting, a Lotto Marriage of St Catherine that
Morelli liked I was much disappointed in, and the Sodoma which he
declares genuine I did not realise at all till I saw the photograph of it,
so much was the colour destroyed. But the 2 Peruginos and the two
Francias remain joys forever, a couple of Durer portraits are as fine
as anything I know, the Morone scholar, the Titian Man in Black, the
Rubens Crucifixion and the still more imaginative Van Dyck of the
same subject and a couple of marvellous Van Dyck portraits with all
the humanity[?] of the vividest imagination on their faces - and the
poetry of the surest intuition - these pictures any gallery would be
proud to have. Left Munich [M¸nchen] at 11.30 and reached Innsbr¸ck
at 3.30. Herr Wildt met us at the station, but we four flew off and came
up in the tram. We arrived long before the others and found Frau
Wildt and Pepi and a new little baby and L'Amor who knew us again
and was delighted to see us. I spent the evening till dinner washing
and unpacking. Our fellow lodgers are two nice maiden ladies called
Rook, one pretty, greyhaired, buxom, the other thin and pale and
delicate, and an awful family, 2 daughters father and mother called
Lawry.