Aug 4. [4 August 1895] Quite well and started out directly after breakfast to see the town. Charming old quarter - made our way down to the Rˆmerberg, quite delicious old houses round the square, the very nicest kind of town building with steep gables and carved fronts. We made our way into the great hall at the Rˆmer where after taking a good look round we were told that we ought to have purchased tickets downstairs, so we went down meekly, but we didn't purchase any as we had seen the Rˆmer. We went to the Dom where the people were just coming out of church - it's a very little place for coronations to have taken place in. Went down to the Main and back along the Juden quarter, all pulled down and built up new, to Goethe's house which is wonderfully interesting. In the courtyard is a little pump where Goethe's mother found the Kˆnigin Luise and her sister when they were girls and had come to Frankfort [Frankfurt am Main] for their father's coronation and there is an engraving of it in the house. Saw a cast of Goethe's hand as an old man - curiously square fingered and lumpy. The house gives one a tremendous impression of the status of the Goethe family - solid, honourable, well to do, no bohemianism about Goethe, no exaggerations of wealth or poverty in his life. One feels this all through him, and that splendid four square way of looking at life is the rarest thing in a man of genius. Left at 12.30 and reached Munich [M¸nchen] at 9, but the journey didn't seem at all long. Read Morelli and La Cousine Bette. Stopped at the Hotel Belle Vue, supper and so to bed.