Tues. 11. [11 September 1894] Beautiful morning. We - Papa, Hugo,
Elsa and I - left by the 10.30 train to Hall where we bought pears and
cakes and started off about 11.15 for the Salzberg. We walked up the
valley by a broad road and presently came to a tiny chapel on which
was an inscription saying it had been founded by King Henry in the
13th century as a boundary mark of the liberties of the Salzberg and
confirmed by Maximilian. The valley was very fine, the mountains
lifting themselves on the right side into steep stony slopes crowned
by precipices. We reached the Salzberg at 1.30 where we asked a
man at the salt works how long it would take us to walk to Scharnitz -
"Oh" he said "you will never get there this night!" A little further on we
sat down and lunched and then walked on to a great cup in the hills
round which curved the road through Austrian firs and scrub. We
reached the top of the pass at 3.15, there was some snow and we sat
down and eat pears. Then we turned down - the north side of the
mountains is very precipitous, we passed under a shere [sic] face of
rock over 1000 ft high. The shape of the strata was very lovely and
the rocks broke sometimes into fantastic fingers pointing up against
the sky. The road was a good one and led down a narrow valley
underneath these precipices to an Alp where there was a hunting
lodge of Prince Hohenlohe's and a Sennh¸tte. Here we had a bowl of
milk and Papa made himself tea. We left about 5.30 - 3 good hours
said the cowherd - and walked down the valley by a good road
following the course of the Isar. Elsa and I on ahead and talking all
the time, a good deal about the Crackanthorpes. The snow lay low
on this north side and stuck to the steep faces of the hills making them
look like huge sugary cakes. At 7 the moon lept [sic] up above the hill
and as we came down into Scharnitz at about 8 the whole little village
was glistening in the moonlight and the Isar gleamed dark under it,
rushing along between the charcoal burning piles of wood. We found
Mother and Molly just arrived by coach at the Traube and had a good
meal of 24 poached eggs and potatoes and cheese. Then to bed -
the air when I opened my window shot in like a knife. Not much sleep
because - ! L'Amore insisted on sleeping with Papa and Hugo.