Sun. 12. [12 August 1894] Went out with Lilian to the Louvre and had a
most enjoyable morning. The Louvre is a Paradise of a place now
that one knows some Italian pictures. As for the Gioconda, she looks
more mysterious than ever - I can't conceive what it is she is smiling
at. But the lightly crossed hands have so much firmness that I'm more
than ever sure she knows all that is to be known. In the Salon CarrÈ
there is a tiny Rembrandt Supper at Emmaus which is very wonderful.
One sees the flash of recognition in the faces of the Apostles as
Christ breaks the bread - and the serving man at their elbow notices
nothing of it all. I saw the Botticelli frescoes and a Fra Lippo with
angels carrying lilies, and lots of the Ferrara people, and a Mantegna
Madonna with a face like the one at Milan [Milano], and Andreas
which left me cold and a Fra Bartolomeo which I grew to like - and
then the Titians! I still think the Rafaels disappointing - that smirking
Madonna! But there is a young St John whom I like very much and I
like too the St Michael and of course the dear portrait. Saw the
drawings hastily - full of interest. Most wonderful Leonardos. After
lunch they all went to the Eiffel Tower and I stayed at home and read
Stevenson and wrote letters. After dinner Lilian started for Geneva
[GÈneve] and we spent the evening at the Cirque d'EtÈ.