Sat. 27. [27 January 1894] Mary wd get up very early - by mistake I
must confess! We went out and saw Enzio's prison - at least what
there was to be seen for we wandered about in and out of where
pompieri seemed to live; then we went to the Palazzo Bevilacqua
very lovely - then to S Stefano standing on a charming place and itself
most interesting - churches of all ages and complexions and a
delicious cloister; then to S Giovanni in Monte where there were some
excellent Costas - he is a person I had not at all realized and is very
good; and S [space left blank] with a good Francia to get to which we
passed through a street called the Inferno - and most suitably. We
lunched on macaroni at the cafÈ which made me very shy for the men
stared. We walked through the market and bought and eat fruit - back
to the hotel and away at 3. All up the Apennines bare and bleak and
snowy, suddenly on the top golden sunset shining over the great blue
Tuscan plain, white towns, grey olives, black cypresses and Pistoja's
[Pistoia] domes and towers. Reached Piazza d'Azeglio at 6 - Miss
Clerks very nice. Only one other pensioner, an old Mrs Pratt, uralt,
who talks nothing but a few words of American.