Sat 29. [29 April 1893] Left Lyon at 6 something. Journeyed through
very lovely Jura country and reached Geneva [GÈneve] at 12. After
going to see Aunt Lizzie's doctor we lunched at a restaurant on the
lake. Rather a nice little place Geneva. Looks chillish though. Left at
2. Rhone a most lovely colour. All the way to Lausanne journeyed
along the fertile fields on the edge of the lake, with mountains
opposite - just the sort of pleasant friendly country people ought to
live in. Not too grand or too alarming. After Lausanne the mountains
became higher and the lake more lovely. Exquisite soft light on it,
creeping in by the opposite shore, the blue water looking more like a
wonderful transparent atmosphere than water, so absolutely peaceful
and the pointed double sails of boats reflected in it, and the enormous
mountains beyond, rising sheer out of the lake, the buttresses of the
world, snow capped and wreathed in cloud and with misty flanks
which turned a deep purple when the white wings of seagulls passed
across them. Went on to Chillon where we saw the bewitching castle;
in the inner courts banksia roses clustered. Full of memories of
Shelley and Byron and those people, just as the mountains and lakes
are of Ruskin and of Turner. Stayed at the Hotel des Alpes at Territet
- very sophisticated. Table d'hote crowded with people. Splendid
moon rising over a great shoulder and shining into the lake.