Ap. 17. [17 April 1914] It was quite cool today - comparatively; 85 was
the highest temperature I registered and we profited by the weather
and made a 10 hours march, without fatigue. A dull part of the desert,
this is; long shallow steps leading us up into the high Hamad. I think
we have left Mesopotamian heat behind and it looks as if it might rain,
in which case we shall be flooded out, being in low ground for the
sake of our evening lights, and under such insufficient canvas too.
Khair, inshallah! Today we saw fresh prints of horsemen. 'Adwan
(who is a charming man by the way) opined that they were Shammar
of the Jezireh [Jazirah, Al], Mesopotamia, looking for 'Anazeh, with
whom they are at feud. I feel no kind of anxiety as to ghazzus while I
have 'Adwan with me. A man from the house of the great shaikh of the
Dulaim, a relative of his, and employed by the Government in
collecting the cattle tax - it would be impossible to find a surer rafiq.
When I part from him the fun may begin, but perhaps not - the
Shamiyyeh [Shamiyah] is tolerably safe. Anyways I don't bother at
all; we have been through places so much worse and come out whole
and sound. The Government has raised the sheep tax by more than
a piastre - I suppose that's the wax[?]. How much of it do they receive,
I wonder? 'Adwan says truly that the shaikhs eat more than the
Government. The long fatigue of travel is upon me and I talk little
while we ride. Whenever I talk 'Adwan greets me with smiles and fair
answers. I love these desert people and the sudden heart-whole part
they play in your fortunes And then you leave them and what do they
think afterwards? I believe they have a pleasant memory of service
rendered and of the quick intimacy of the few days' journey. One of
my rafiqs, far away on the other side of the Nefud [Nafud, An], said
once over the camp fire "In all the years when we come to this place
we shall say: 'Here we came with her, here she camped.' It will be a
thing to talk of, your ghazzu. We shall be asked for news of it and we
shall speak of it and tell how you came." I expect they will, and it
makes me dreadfully anxious that they should tell nothing but good,
since they will judge my whole race by me. That recollection very
often checks the hasty word when I am tired, and feeling cross, or
bored - heavens! how bored, cross and tired some times! Then I try
to remember that they will tell how I came.