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Diary entry by Gertrude Bell

Reference code
GB/2/13/2/1/31
Creator
Bell, Gertrude Margaret Lowthian
Creation Date
Extent and medium
1 entry, paper
Language
English
Location
Coordinates

23.885942, 45.079162

Sat. Jan 31 [31 January 1914] Off before sunrise with 'Ali, Awwad and a man of M's called Audeh to Kilweh. We rode across endless small ridges and valleys. Near our tents in a valley the rain of the early winter had ploughed a deep ghadir in the sand where there had been none the year before. Awwad told of the great raid of last year, across to the Euphrates. They took 1200 camel riders, were away 3 months but not a man died. They crossed the desert to al Mat, were 3 days in the W. Hauran [Hawran, Wadi] and came to Kubaisah [Kubaysah]. They held up Fahd ibn Hadhdhal at Ghazazeh but did not take many camels as they were all away. 200 said Awwad. Therefore Audeh determined to extend operations. He divided his people into 3, sent 2/3 [two thirds] home and with 100 riders went N. to near Haleb [Halab (Aleppo)] raiding the northern Anazeh, Fedah and Sba'. He mainly captured camels of the fellahin near Homs [Hims] and Hama [Hamah] and they complained to the Govt so that he had to return the camels afterwards. The Anazeh wd not complain to the Govt - it was the fortunes of war, so Muhammad told me at night in the big tent. The whole expedition was for nothing; they got nothing out of it. But it was ........ said 'Ali. We crossed a biggish valley which goes to the Sirhan [Sirhan, Wadi] and another which goes to Umm Rqubbeh [Khabrat Umm ar Raqabah]. Here a Howaiti met us and told us of a qasr on the hill, al Za'udiyyeh, whither we went. We had a glorious view from it and I think it must have been a sort of high place. A round building of dry masonry, uncut stones; it must have been a sort of bee hive vault. A circular wall round it; it did not stand quite in the middle and round that a row of upright stones following the contour of the hill. This is the red sandstone country and so continued till we got down to Kilweh. The khabra has been made into a big birkeh, there are traces of a strong dam on the lower side. The first building is a cistern with a hole to admit the water from the khabra. The other 3 are lodgings. No decoration; carefully plastered inside and over the roof of stone slabs a covering of mortar and small stones. The same lines the cistern. A Cufic inscrip. scratched in the plaster of the door. No decoration save a sort of pyramid pattern of plaster and pebbles over one of the doors. No arches. A few Arabic letters written on a bit of sandstone in the cistern. The rest of the buildings are of volcanic stones and the plaster must have been brought from far. Under a little tell we saw scattered fragments of it and the place where it had been burnt. Other small ruins scattered over the plain but no mortar and the stones not squared. So rode back with a strong cold wind behind us and got in soon after sunset. Lovely in the early morning to see the nagas and their calves near the tents. Our dululs had gone to a khabra to fetch water. They did not return till past 9 and then reported that one had sat down 6 hours away, and refused to move. They had left her. So we had to send for her and no marching tomorrow! I sat in M.'s tent and Hajjaj sang to the rebaba of Audeh's raids invoking 'Aliyah. {There is dew here. The sand is frosted}. No one had any water till the camels came in - neither Arabs nor we. An old woman came and told Muham. that her man[?] was ill and wd he send someone.

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