Tuesday Ap 6. [6 April 1909] At 5 min to 6 I stepped into my kuffa and
crossed the river. Moon sitting on one side and sun rising on the
other, marvellously beautiful. Got the E. faÁade in exactly the right
light, recrossed the river and found F. [Fattuh] and Jusef with the
horses. We mounted and rode at about 6.20. All along the river bank
over the perilous bridges of the canals. All the people water drawing -
they work in relays of 6 hours. A chird by my tents worked all night.
We sent the baggage which we caught up at 9.45 by the Khin[?] and
ourselves rode down to Garara bridge which we found maktu'a and
no kuffa large enough to carry our horses. So we rode wearily on
round the river bend. Met one of Sir W.'s men measuring; an Egyptian
I think or an Indian. Rode straight to the Consulate - Baghdad was
very welcome. The blue minaret ... mosque at the end of the bridge is
falling down - that was the first thing I noticed. The Ramsays put me
up - Consulate new and very splendid. Indian servants, an immense
compound. They are horribly anxious about Sir W. Willcocks who is
held up at Amara ['Amarah, Al]. Ramsay coming up from Basrah
[Basrah, Al (Basra)] ten days ago was fired at by the Beni L'am. Sir
W. has failed to get through. The Beni La'm have joined with {Beni}
Abu Muhammad and there are Arabs on both sides of the stream.
The Vali has sent down 2 boats with soldiers and all are locked up at
Amara. No news.