Wed 17. [17 July 1907] Went down to the hotel with F [Fattuh] to see
about my things and called out Prof Callander who sat talking to me
while F packed. He had had a very hard fortnight in the hill country
west of Selefke [Silifke (Seleucia)] and little to reward him. After lunch
we went through great perturbations because F's teskereh to C'ple
[Istanbul (Constantinople)] was refused. I telegraphed to Fitzmaurice
and Ferid. Lˆytved came in and Prof C. and a nice Mr Sackville West
who is in the Debt. He is going to Adana [(Seyhan, Ataniya)]
tomorrow. After tea Lˆytved and I went off to see the site of the great
church of St George which seems to have been an immense
cruciform. They have dug down in places about 15 ft and taken away
all the stones. Only two bits with fine classical mouldings on them
were to be seen. But the old Turk who lives in the neighbouring house
planned the walls as they were uncovered - before the stones were
taken away and showed the plan to Lˆytved. It was a true cruciform of
immense size. The nave went on under the street. Further to the W is
a little Seljuk mosque who probably accounts for the destruction of the
church. But L. told me he came down during the diggings and found
Hellenistic potsherds and glass fragments (one glass jar whole) and
Moslem faience all together. He got his heads from here. There is an
inscription about [space left blank] Vulpius whose head L. had got.
The heads probably came from a [space left blank] which was
destroyed to build the church. To the N in a garden are some very
interesting caps, one of the true square ....... form, one Corinthian, and
a bit of round column. L. thinks there was a chapel here. Came back
and found Prof C still in the garden. We all sat talking of the true aim of
education. After dinner talked long to Captain DW [Doughty Wylie] of
things and people and he told tales of China and of the Mad Mullah
expedition - both episodes reflected little credit on the man who led
our troops.