Fri 28. [28 April 1905] Off at 6.30, Ali, Mullah Muhammad and I to Ak
Kale, Fattuh and Mahmud to Alata to deal with Mikhail. I sent him £T3
as travelling money and a cheque for £21.16 to Mr Dickson. We rode
through the corn and wild olives to the ruins. An immense building -
fortified monastery? - with a vast vaulted tank and near it a cruciform
church which I planned and photographed. Then up into the hills to
Kanidivan. Very rocky path, part of it an old paved road. Lots of
tombs at the entrance of the town. The main feature of it is the huge
rocky gulf set in the middle - Strzygowski's basilika stands on the N
edge of it. I found 3 churches all very devoid of ornament, but one of a
most curious shape. A vast substructure behind the apse which
stands clear from it. All poor building, I think this church was without a
narthex. They all seem to have been singularly windowless. Planned
and photographed. Lunched by some Yuruk tents, where the people
were charming and gave me milk and coffee. It hailed for 1/2 an hour
but I went on with my work till 3. I found the 5th church to the W but
nothing but the pavement remains of it. In the gulf there are 2 rock cut
reliefs, one of 6 persons, one of a single warrior. Drank more coffee
and photgraphed the Yuruks and so home by a path leading west
and south. Just below the town 2 more rock cut reliefs. We passed
another little ruined site half way down and I saw the remains of a tiny
apse. By the sea I found another church which explained partly the
one at Shehir. It too had 2 apses one set behind and to the north[?] of
the other. It was quite irregular in shape due I think to the exigencies
of the ground which fell away sharply to the S. So in at 5 and found
Mahmud and Fattuh arrived - the Mikhail affair settled. Lovely clear
evening. The tents had been moved out of the marsh higher up onto
the sand. The first oleanders out.