Wed 9 [9 May 1900] Went to drink a cup of tea with Sheikh 'Ali el Kadi.
Found him not ready and examined the Khalweh hard by. Lots of old
carving built into it - key pattern with birds and heads between -
baddish. Also a broken lintel on which an elaborate carving had
been which they said a Consul had broken! The tea extended itself
into lots of strange foods. Sheikh Ali consulted me as to whether he
should boil the water and the milk together and was much surprised
that I didn't take sugar. Bothers with Suleiman, the old man who lived
in the temple, as to tips. Parted with him and N ed D and rode off with
Hanna down the tree clad hill. Hermon [Sheikh, Jebel esh] too lovely.
Passed the ruins of a big monastery on the right. Caught up the
mules and Ali and hurried down into the plain to Suleim. Very lovely
temple. Bargained for necklaces. The Sheikh's house is interesting,
a beautiful carved door in situ, but also in shadow. Off with Hannah
past Murkub where there seemed to be lots of old stones. From
thence turned up to the E between the main hills and a little volcano
the name of which is Ghawara, at the foot of it lies Shahba. Beyond
are some rocky volcanic mounds called Tell el Jamel. Stopped to
photograph a Roman gate below which the Druzes entrenched
themselves in the battle. It was spotted with bullets. Rode on to a
second gate and into the town by a paved street, very horrible for the
animals. Past the bath and to the Carrefour where there were the
pediments of pillars and down another paved street which led to the E
gate and the birkeh where we camped. Got in at 11.40 and lunched
and slept. Tired and cross. Walked all over the town - temple,
theatre, circus, ruins of a mosque but all lived in and disfigured.
Bargained for silver which I got, thanks to Hannah. Nearly closed with
the Sheikha for a buckle worth nothing, to Hannah's indignation. Sent
'Ali to Um ez Zeitun to ask the Sheikh Abu Tallal about the jamai'eh.
There is one tomorrow and he will pick me up on his way.