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Thurs 10. [10 May 1900] I got up early to be ready for him, the Sheikh of the town paid me a call and assured me I might go, but by 8, Abu Tullal hadn't appeared. I decided to set off alone, but there came a khazyul from Suweidah [As Suwayda'] to say there was nothing today, which I believe was only to prevent my going. I therefore packed and set off to Damascus [Dimashq (Esh Sham, Damas)]. When we passed the Ghararah I met Abu Tullal and sent messages to Yahya Beg. I now saw the Lejah [Al Laja] before me, but with some regret, turned away from it and went straight north, not even going down into Umm ez Zeitun. I paid Ali and sent him off and we followed along the Luhf which is lined with villages between the corn and the volcanic rock. I cd see trees and tiny volcanoes in it. Lunched at El Hadr, under a fig tree, an agreeable gentleman from Damascus entertaining me the while. Easy going. Got into Sawarat el Kebireh at 4.15, barely 7 hours, and camped outside the town by the pond. They all came to visit me, the Sheikha's cousin had been our muleteer to Neby Musa [Nabi Musa]. Sheikh Ibrahim was a dear, very tall and beautiful, but with consumption. A one eyed gentleman had been imprisoned 5 years at Ismid. Went to his house - his wife talked a little German. Ruins of a church and lots of Halas, the village in very good repair. Then to the Sheikh's house - lovely view from his roof. His room very well furnished with lots of carpets. So home and swam in the pond, but I think there were leeches in it.