Tues 12 [12 December 1899] Got in at 8.30. Niger already in. The Rosens came to meet me, took me on shore to the Hotel du Parc where we breakfasted. The garden full of monkeys and parrots, a delicious place. The Vice Consul Schmidt and his wife came to see the Rs. We drove out to the Russian tower whence we had a lovely view across the oasis of Jaffa [Tel Aviv-Yafo (Joppa)], the German village of Saronto and the plain of Sharon with the hills of Judah backing it. Passed by a charming well called the Sibeer abu Abdul I think. Called on the Schmidts and drank Marsala. Lunched and so to the station. Train left at 1.20. All the Russian pilgrims on it and Mr FitzGerald in our carriage. Across the Plain of Sharon, very brown, but a beautiful oasis of olives at Ramleh [Ramla (Ramle)], so into a long rocky valley twisting up through the hills. Passed Samson's cave. Had tea on biscuits and oranges. A brick red sunset. The Kumandant Pasha is on train, Turkish soldiers to meet him. Got to Jerusalem [(El Quds esh Sherif, Yerushalayim)] about 5, Charlotte met us and we drove to the Consulate where we had a real tea and then Charlotte took me to my hotel, Hotel Jérusalem. Unpacked hastily, had a hot bath and back to the Consulate to dinner. Awful cold and very tired. To bed early. Delicious moonlight night. My housemaid is a gentleman in a fez.