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Tues May 3 [3 May 1898] Woke at 5.45 up and dressed, just reaching Canton [Guangzhou]. Crowds of junks and sampans. Ah Cum came on board for us. Breakfast at 7 and off at 8 in chairs through the extraordinary streets. First to sea god temple, lovely carvings outside. Then to 500 Buddhas where some monks were having a service, beating bells and drums. Various shops, temple of Horrors - the worst horrors were outside! - Tartar town, Flower Pagoda, cemetary [sic], walls and back to Chinese town. Lunched at Ex Viceroy's tiffin garden. Then to execution ground where they offered to show us a head, and Ho Nan temple to which we went in a sampan. Ah Cum unpayable. "This old gentleman been here 10 years y'know" said he in the cemetary. Accent of the upper 10! Back to boat at 2 slept till 3, infernal noise[?]. Went by chair to Shameen, delicious settlement - had tea with the Griffiths who were very friendly. Mr Dennison there, took me back in a sampan. Off at 5. ...... boats worked by coolies. Down the river every hill a graveyard. An American and another on board.