Sun. Sep 3. [3 September 1899] The Frenchmen off at 4. We at 4.30.
Paulcke had had fever all night and turned back after a few steps.
Lohm¸ller joined us. The Frenchman went up a couloir and we never
saw them again. We turned left across the tail of the glacier, and up
nÈvÈs and stones. Wonderful sunrise over clouds. View very fine.
About 6 we got to the foot of the arete when Mathon collapsed. He
insisted on coming on and we roped. 1/2 hour later he gave in and
we three went on alone. Easy, tedious, rather rotten arete till 8.15
when we got onto the glacier and saw the two peaks. Cold wind.
Easy glacier, got to the top at 8.45. Fine view, clouds far away, but we
saw Mont Blanc. Ecrins clear, a little stream of mist on the Meije. Sat
under a rock and eat but it was cold. Pic sans Nom right in front. Left
at 9.30. Came down pretty fast, amidst showers of stones, Lohm¸ller
leading. Mathon better, came down with us. Nice nÈvÈs down which
we slid. Got to the refuge at 11.45. Paulcke better. Lunched on all the
provisions we had. (My lemonade had emptied over the bread going
up, but the Germans had lots more bread.) Most delicous at the
refuge, hot sun. Mountains and glaciers opposite splendid. Slept on
the rocks and off at 2. Very pleasant coming down. The Germans
stayed near the hotel and cooked their own dinner. I got in at 4. Tea
and a bath and rest, dinner at 6.45, the Germans sitting by. We talked
till near 9 and then to bed. Slept soundly.