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Diary entry by Gertrude Bell

Reference code
GB/2/13/2/1/14
Creator
Bell, Gertrude Margaret Lowthian
Creation Date
Extent and medium
1 entry, paper
Language
English
Location
Jordan ยป Amman
Coordinates

31.952063, 35.937938

Wed. Jan 14 [14 January 1914] Drew out Kharaneh [Qasr el Kharana] and decided to run away next day when the camel drivers for whom we have sent from Dam. [Dimashq (Damascus, Esh Sham, Damas)] have come. Told the Yuzbashi I intended to go to Umm al Kundum [Um el Kundum] and very appropriately Shibly Bsharra arrived and I explained to him my plan. He said I would have no difficultly. The soldiers wd not go far into the desert because of their horses; a little money wd buy them off anyway. In the afternoon went to a Circassian wedding. The girls all in their best pink and blue, silver belts and a silver ring on each finger, with high caps, embroidered and covered with tinsel stood in a ring. One played an accordian and the men beat time with two pieces of wood. All the girls plain except one. A man stepped into the ring and took out one of the girls - each one came in her turn. The men made elaborate steps; some were in full Circassian clothes, some in Arab clothes. The girls just minced round, rather gracefully. A very drunken man in top boots and a long coat, who insisted on speaking to me in Russian "Barnia[?]" also danced, rather well. Also a little boy of 12 or 15. All small men. Then the ring opened and a man on a horse galloped in and stopped dead against the house, before which we were sitting. He did this 2 or 3 times. I went to see the bride in the house - it was that of the bridegroom who wd not appear till night. She was dresed up and heavily veiled in 2 or more veils, one of green gauze. She stood like an image in a room crowded with women and very hot. She was unveiled for me. She stood with downcast eyes looking very tired. A pasty[?] heavy complexion, otherwise pretty. They veil only after marriage. At home they used not to veil at all. Then I went to tea with the Mu'allim, Elyas who has a little house up the valley. There are 15 houses of Protestants. They have not yet got permission to open a school. He talks a little English. "They like to smell your smell" said he of the others assembled. So back to find letters. The two men from Dam. have come. At night I talked like a mother to the 3 Agailat who swore they wanted to come with me. Gave a signed document to the Yuzbashi saying they were not responsible for me and England had no cause for complaint if anything happened, and spent a sleepless night thinking I was now an outlaw. The desert always looks terrifying from outside.

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