Sat Ap 1 [1 April 1911] At 5.30 Temp 40 Bar 28.95. A delicious
morning. We got off at 6.4 At 7.20 passed by Yarnideh, a tepe with a
village behind and got to Gˆk Tepe at 8. I went to the top of it and had
a fine view of the wide valley of the Kajar Chai which is a tributary of
the Lower Zab [Zab, Little (Zei Koya)]. To the N Jebel Alkosh was
white with snow E of it Milhosh Dagh which yakutt 'ala Rowandaz and
the white mt above Suleimaniyyeh [Sulaymaniyah, As] which is
Kandil. The tell is very high and imposing. To the E of it a sort of outer
ring, joining it on the E and standing clear to the N [sketch] this way.
We crossed the Kajar Chai at 8.50 and got to Altun Keupri [Altin Kˆpr¸
(Pirde)] at 10.20 (caravan time, F [Fattuh] and I had got in before) The
bridge over the main stream, which was very deep and swift, is
extraordinarily high, like a mountain. I sat in the Mudir's office which is
opposite the entrance of the bridge till the caravan came, then I went
to the Rais el Baladiyyeh, a charming old man. Presently they
announced that the khayyal was ready and I went off to join the
caravan. Found them by the bridge which crosses a second and
lesser arm of the river. When we got out of the town I saw that the
zaptieh, Reshid was heading N of the Karachok D [Qarachoq, Jabal] I
protested and he said he knew no other way. So he and I rode back
to the town, I asking as I went whether there were not a way by the Zab
and hearing that there was. Saw the Rais el B. sitting on his balcony
and interpelated him. He came with me to the Mudir who was much
perplexed. Why did I desire that road? Because it was shorter. He
then took the map and looked at it upside down; he made more of the
Amr which was magnificently universal. I then suggested that I shd
take Reshid and a man from the town as guide. The Mudir agreed to
this and asked the R. el B. to find a man. We went down into the street
and met an aged party whom the R. clapped on the back, then took
his hand and counted on his fingers all the places he was to take me
to, ending with Shergat [Sharqat]. Finally he told me to give him 2 mej.
The old man's name is Ahmet and he is a sab'. We rode out of the
town again, called back the caravan and at 11.45 started on the right
road parallel to the river. Crossed a high line of hills from which I had
a splendid view as I lunched and rode down over broken rocky
ground to the valley of the Zab where we camped at 3.5 at the village
of Palkanah. Just opposite to us {on the opposite bank} is Gabalek.
{The river is, I suppose, about a mile away.} Reshid is an Arab of the
'Ubud. The chief sheikh is Hussein who is now camping in the Hamrin
[Hamrin, Jabal]. They and the Jebur share this country E of Tigris.
My zaptiehs this morning asked me anxiously whether Turkey were in
debt to us and whether we intended to take 'Irak in payment. At the
beginning of the Mashrutiyyeh they were promised 300 ps a month,
they keeping their horse. That wd have done very well but they only
got it for 2 months since when they get 190 ps which is not enough.
The mare costs 5 mej a month which leaves only 3 mej for
themselves. They get their pay regularly and in full which they used
not to do in the Istibdad, but they may not take tips or bribes. The men
of this village Kurds but speak Arabic as well. Much excited at my
coming.