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Wed June 9. [9 June 1909] We were ready at 6 but had to wait an
hour while some arabas went over in the ferry. Finally we got
ourselves across and started at 8. We rode up over a hill and down
into a valley at the bottom of which on the other side was the village of
Melekjan which we reached at 10.15 having stopped a few minutes to
eat mulberries. Then we rode over another hill and down into a fine
wide valley past a big chiflik (12) belonging to a man in Malatia
[Malatya (Melitene, Milid)]. A few minutes further on was a lovely
grove of willows under which I stopped for 1/2 an hour and lunched.
Then up another very long hill and by a switchback road till about 2.15
we came out onto the top and saw a great wide valley and Malatia
lying in gardens at our feet. We got there at 2.45. Quite a Turkish
town, veiled women, latticed windows. Camped outside under willows
by a little irrigation stream on the Eskisheher [Eskimalatya] road.
Presently came to see me the head of the police, then the President
of the Municipality Mustafa Agha, a charming man, and with him Dr
Mikhail Kichichian who studied at Beyrout [Beyrouth (Beirut)]. I went
with them to the Serai where I photographed some Hittite stones from
Arslan Tepe. I can see the Dersim Mountains, snow covered from my
tents. There are still rows there. Opium poppies everywhere. They
are just gathering the opium. Fruit gardens.