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Diary entry by Gertrude Bell

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Bell, Gertrude Margaret Lowthian
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1 entry, paper
Turkey ยป Maden

38.4443966, 39.6270779

Sat. June 5. [5 June 1909] There was a wedding in Tarmul last night
and the inhabitants of a neighbouring village took the opportunity to
rob a mule. We heard the shots. The mule was recaptured this
morning and we met the bridal party on the road to the bridegroom's
village - a miserable collection of hovels. The bridge was cloaked in
bright magenta and ....... We left at 6 and passed Kaydeu K. to the R
at 6.30. At 6.50 Shawa K to the R. both about 3/4 of a mile off the road.
7.10 Tulkhum a mile to the R on a big tell. At 8.15 we crossed a small
stream - we had gone over a low range just after Tulkhum and into a
little plain. There was a village about 1 mile off to the R in the middle
of the plain. At 8.30 Kadi K to the R. off the road. At 9 we came to the
place where the road branched off to Arghaneh and stayed till 9.10. I
left Fattuh behind, took Jusef and an onbashi and rode up to the
monastery, leaving Arghaneh to the left. Wonderfully situated both
monastery and village, the first on the steep slope of the pointed
rocky hill, the second on the top. We reached it at 10.10 and stayed
till 10.35; being rewarded by a fine view and a pleasant cup of coffee
with the prior. It is Armenian, dedicated to the Virgin, they say 1865
years old. But it has been completely rebuilt in the middle ages -14th
c about perhaps from a little very Arabic decoration over the church
door and some flat Arab patterns on some small caps in a niche to
the S of the apse. A dome on pendentives. High wind and quite cold.
We rode down to some gardens where I lunched 11.15-11.35. Then
along the rocky slopes of the hill with the road on the opposite side of
the valley. Crossed over to it at 12.50 and at 1 crossed the Maden
Chai by the Karandan Kopressi. So up a long hill and winding in and
out by a good road and down again to the Maden Chai. By it are the
copper smelting works, furnace burning charcoal and blown by
billows. The copper is cast into rough plates and carried away by
camels. I did not go up to the mines where there was much smoke -
apparently they partly smelt the ore up there. At 3 we got to the Khan
by the stream and found the caravan just arrived. No place to camp
so we put up at the Khan, very delicious, like a little English inn in a
deep valley. The hills all bare and red.

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