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Diary entry by Gertrude Bell

Reference code
GB/2/11/6/14
Creator
Bell, Gertrude Margaret Lowthian
Creation Date
Extent and medium
1 entry, paper
Language
English
Location
Coordinates

38.6586639, 34.8531604

Monday June 14. [14 June 1909] Left Yazi Keui at 6.15 and rode off to see the ruins. Up a winding bare valley onto a broad grassy yaila 7.40. This is the direct caravan road from Sivas [(Sebastea)] to Albistan [Elbistan]. We rode over the yaila for a quarter of an hour and came to the first ruin which was a small tomb of fine big masonry buried in a mound. The first stones of the vault remained. A few minutes away were the remains of 2 larger tombs of very big stones, both of them on rocky knolls. The cut stones of the vaults lying about. That was all except that there were many traces of ruins about, uncut stones, probably a village here on the Sivas road. Left at 8.20 and rode down by another way. The chief feature from the yaila was the high Nurchak D. [Nurhak Dagi] with some snow on it, below Albistan. Got down into the Tokhma [Tohma] valley at 9.45. At 10 we passed Tikmen on the R bank of the stream rather high up above it. At 10.50 rode through Telin; at 11.35 reached Gübün [?]. The village is built under the cliffs which are honeycombed with caves. None of the fruit ripe here, mulberries nor anything. At 11.45 we came to the beginnings of Gürün [?] - the valley up to here was very narrow and full of gardens the whole way; at Gürün [?] it opened out a little. We got to the Khan about 12 and were met by a party who talked English and said the Kaimmakam asked if I wd not rest here for a few hours. The caravan had gone on (they said with a zaptieh) and I said I wd not wait and that my zaptieh was to follow. So I rode on with Jusef through the town which is immensely long. Turned off before the gorge where the Hittite inscrips are and at the bottom of the hill met the zaptieh riding slowly. Bustled him up the hill and finally caught up the caravan on the top about 1.15. Shortly after lunched for 25 min. and caught up the caravan. We rode up and down stony hills and finally down onto a fine high yaila which is chiflik. The zaptieh said some of it had already been sold to some Aleppo [Halab] buyers, but I doubt whether the transaction is completed. F. [Fattuh] said when they got to Gürün [?] no zaptiehs were forthcoming and they were asked to stay the night. This they declined to do and rode on alone. The truth was that none of the zaptiehs have been paid for 3 months and they refused to be sent any where unless they were paid. But finally they had to come without. At 3.10 we saw Kavak Euren to the L. above the valley of the Tochma Su. So over the meadows till we came to the chiflik buildings of brick and tile, very neat and fine, and here we rode down into the Tokhma valley to Osmandedeli which we reached at 4. We camped above the village in the valley full of grass, very delicious. An Armenian with his wife came to see me. His origin is Gürün [?] where more than half the population is Armenian. He came to ask for news. There was no panic here though there were massacres in 1895. At that time the Sultan took away his lands for chiflik and he is now wondering whether he will get them back. A cuckoo. Above my camp on a rocky point were indistinguishable ruins which I take to have been a small fort. Among them a big lintel with a Greek cross in a circle.

IIIF Manifest
https://api-dor.ncl.ac.uk/iiif/JdZV?showOnlyPages=286-288