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Diary entry by Gertrude Bell

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Bell, Gertrude Margaret Lowthian
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1 entry, paper

37.709792, 28.709734

Sun Ap 21 [21 April 1907] Went out at 7 with a kavass from the station up onto the platform of Tralleis. Took used-up films so I cd not photograph. The whole plateau of the town covered with grass and olives. 2 churches, Hamdy had done a little work here too. One must have been a round church; all that one could see are 4 sorts of bays towards the east: [sketch] something like that. The other was apsed thus: [sketch]. The site of the theatre can be made out. From the acropolis above it a splendid view up the valley and down onto Aidin [Aydin]. So down by the Roman thermae and then by a mosque set in a cloister. The mosque is only 150 years old and is adorned inside with roccocco sort of stucco work. A charming fountain in the cloister. So down and met the station master, {Sheikh A} Economulej who took me to see the head dervish at the Tekke, Sheik Aziz Effendi. From him we got the key of the stucco mosque. Visited another near the station; not old. The konak is finely placed above the gorge. Most excellent sweetmeats in Aidin; it was market day. Off at 11.30 to Kuyujuk. All the valley smiling and flowering. Fattuh is of opinion that there are no honest govts in the world but the English and the Persian. I questioned the latter. "Because there are no thieves in Persia - are there brigands? no. They cut off the right hand of every man who steals. So he steals no more." Spent the afternoon in my carriage writing and reading Economedis's reports on the railway. Talked to the station master who said the trade from Yalovatch [YalvaÁ] and K [space left blank] still comes by Diner [Dinar (Apamea)] because the freights on the Anatolian and Kassaba are so high. He hopes England has now wakened up to her diminishing position in Turkey.

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