Wed 10 Ap. [10 April 1907] Up at 6. Pretty fine - it had rained in the
night. Went out to see the mosque. The 4 great pillars in the interior
very splendid. One of them has a magnificent capital. Capitals and
fragments of columns round the court. Off at 9.30. Fine views of
Ephesus as the train climbed the hill. A Roman aqueduct in the valley
before we reached the summit. Got to Gonjeli at 10.30 about and to
Morali about 11.30. Took a charming Greek and went to the ruins of
Magnesia ad Maeandrum. The line runs through then. Not very
interesting. The temple quite destroyed. Fragments of caps (Ionic)
and frieze very coarse work. The wall round the temenos standing up
to a considerable height. The Agora is not visible on the surface but
one can follow the deep trenches of the German excavations along
the walls and then[?] see the pillars which stood round the whole
space. A good deal of the theatre remains - seats gone. A fine
stadion hollowed out of the hill with some of the original marble seats.
Came back to the temple of Artemis where I photographed. Mud and
water everywhere. So by the Byzantine agora where there was I
believe a church, home. Had tea in my carriage with the Greek. The
station master came in saying affably "Goodbye" as he entered. He
then brought his wife recently married. "I take a girl 25 days" said he.
So we had jam and water and they left. Off at 4.20 and reached Sokia
[Sˆke] about 5. Up to the hotel. Very clean and comfortable but the
prices rather exhorbitant. Went out to see Mr Ben Hodder who
showed me over his liquorice works. The largest in Turkey. They
make about 200 boxes each 21/2 cwt per week. Most of the liquorice
is sent in bulk to America and manufactured there. A very simple
process of boiling and evaporating. They store the root a year
before they work[?] it. Wiegand's kavass appeared in the evening
and brought me a word of the arrangements for crossing the
Maeander [B¸y¸k Menderes].