Sun. 27 [27 April 1902] Strong east wind and grey. I walked out to the baths, a horrid sight. There are ruins all along the edge of the lake. Soon after 11 I set out riding along the lake - Nasib forgot something and had to go back which delayed us near an hour - past Mejdel [Migdal] and the splendid Wady el Hammam and over the plain of Genneserat [Ginnosar] - the way very difficult to find because of water courses and deep withered flowers, to an old ruined Khan and so to Tabugha wh is probably Capernaum. A charming little monastery and its gardens here. I got a man to guide us up the hills to Safad [Zefat]. We rode for 2 hours over most desolate heights, then dropped into a magnificent valley with a village in it and great cliffs and so up to the top of the hill to Safad. I put up at a little Jew hotel and an obliging gentleman took me through the town to Nicula's house where I also found Najib. Charming people. Najib walked back with me in the dark.