Mon June 28. [28 June 1909] The train did not go till 7.30 Turkish ie
about 3. In the morning I finished my letters and paid off Jusef and
Habib. Then we broke up camp. A little way along the road is a
ruined mosque with some double columns and a flat acanthus cap
evidently taken from a church. Called on Frau Kamitsch and had a
long talk with her. The Kaimmakam is a Young Turk. He stopped
massacres here. There was a time of alarm and the Circassians
were threatening the town. They sent demands to the rly officials
saying they were to be given free access to the station and the latter
said they wd defend it against them. The Kaimmakam himself
patrolled the town night after night to see that nothing happened. So
to lunch at the restaurant for 5 ps and back to the station where I read
papers. Then F [Fattuh] and I left for Karaman [(Laranda)]. We went
to the same little inn. I walked out about the bazaar and presently met
my Greek travelling acquaintance who took me to the Emisher[?]
Jamissi where there is a fine door. The spandrils are filled in with very
free[?] relief of rinceaux, leaves and flowers. Opposite is a charming
fountain. Back to the hotel and took a Hammal who showed me the
way to the Khatunieh. On my way I was warmly welcomed by a
muhajjir Arabaji who had worked a couple of days for me in the Kara
D [Kara Dag]. The Mollah came and opened the Khatunieh - all the
glazed tile inscrip. is gone from the inside but 2 tiny fragments. I told
him I had one tile at which he was much disgusted. But presently I
saw in the court a marble double column from a church so I said that
he Islam had stolen that from the Xians as a Xian had stolen a tile from
the Moslems. At which he was much pleased. On my way back the
arabaji insisted on my coming to his house and drinking coffee which
his wife made for me. He himself drank arak. He came from
Roumelia 4 years ago but his wife died and he married this Karamanli
(a very nice little woman) to whom apparently the house belongs. So
we went back to the hotel and were warmly greeted by an Aleppo
[Halab] merchant whom we met here 4 years ago. A zabit came to
see me about my zaptieh and with him, the locandaji, the hammal and
the arabaji sitting round a table we went into council of war about
transport, it being finally settled that I shd take the arabaji's two horses
and he shd get a supplementary donkey, the whole for 7 mej. for 4
days. The Aleppine brought me an offering of strawberry jam and sat
with me after dinner. He says all the Aleppo Xians are in a great state
of alarm and people like the Homsys are talking of emigrating. The
arabaji said to his wife when I got to his house: Didn't I tell you about a
kyz who dug in the Kara D? Ishte bu[?]!"